Accra

The West Bronx is home to one of the largest Ghanaian communities outside West Africa, and Accra has been feeding it since the 1980s, run by the same family the whole time. You order at a front counter from a chalkboard, and most people leave with takeout, but there is a small dining room with velvet banquettes for anyone who wants to stay.

Order waakye — rice and beans cooked together until the grains turn a dusky red — with chicken stew, or a plate of jollof, and make sure there is shito on the side: Ghana's dark, smoky pepper sauce made with dried fish and shrimp, the condiment that makes the whole meal. Banku and fufu with soup are here too for anyone ready to eat with their hands.