Asian Jewels Seafood Restaurant

Weekend dim sum in Flushing at full scale: a big Cantonese banquet hall split into several rooms, carts moving quickly between round tables, and families staking out space for three generations. The line looks worse than it is — waits tend to run twenty to thirty minutes, and the rooms turn fast.

Flag down har gow, shumai and steamed rice rolls as they pass, then chicken feet, sausage buns and peppery beef ribs. At dinner the menu turns to Cantonese seafood and wok dishes; The Infatuation points to the puffy beef chow fun and salt-and-pepper pork chops.