Aska

Chef Fredrik Berselius's two-Michelin-star tasting-menu restaurant, in an all-black former warehouse near the South Williamsburg waterfront. Since 2012 it has cooked from his Swedish roots and Northeastern ingredients — smoke, preservation, things foraged upstate — for about ten tables arranged around an open kitchen.

The meal runs to fifteen or so courses and leans toward seafood: trout under a tart broth with a tuft of crisp lichen, scallops, langoustine, lobster. It is serious, but the staff's enthusiasm keeps it from feeling solemn. The menu is prepaid, so treat it as the occasion it is.