Bánh Vietnamese Shop House

Bánh began as a weekends-only pop-up on Amsterdam Avenue in the fall of 2020 and became the Upper West Side's Vietnamese table — a narrow room with the kitchen running the length of it, and a wait at dinner that can stretch toward an hour. It is the older sibling of Bánh Anh Em on Third Avenue.

Come at weekend lunch, when the specials include bánh cuốn — steamed rice-batter crepes rolled around minced pork — and pâté chaud. The pho leans into star anise and cinnamon, best with a bánh quẩy, a fried breadstick, for dunking. The charbroiled pork bánh mì with scallion oil is the sandwich to get.