Bernie's

Red-checkered tablecloths, vinyl booths that pull you in and a deliberately retro, suburban-steakhouse mood: Bernie's is Greenpoint's take on the neighborhood place where everyone seems to know each other. It doesn't take reservations, and the line forms before the doors open.

Start with a wedge salad under a heavy blanket of dressing and a martini so cold it carries ice crystals. The chicken parm is the comfort order; the French-style vinegar chicken with roasted shallots and peppers is the one to try. Finish with the lemon ice-box pie, or the brownie sundae if the table is sharing.