Birds of a Feather

A bright, roomy Sichuan restaurant on Grand Street with big front windows and a communal table down the middle — the place to bring a group when you want to eat well without spending much.

Start with the wontons in chili oil (save the sauce for everything else) and the soup buns, then move to double-cooked pork, tea-smoked duck, a whole steamed fish or the Chungking chicken. Portions are big, so order family style and share.