Bungalow

Vikas Khanna's East Village restaurant on First Avenue takes India's twenty-eight states as its map and draws on the traditions of each. It is celebratory food — the kind of Indian cooking you plan an evening around.

The five-cheese kulcha, a stuffed flatbread, is the order to start with; the yogurt kebabs, wrapped in shredded kataifi pastry and set over pickled cabbage purée and spicy mango, are the more surprising one. The cocktail list runs on Indian spice — turmeric in the tequila, chili in the mezcal. Michelin gives it a Bib Gourmand.