Ćevabdžinica Sarajevo

The name is a job description: a ćevabdžinica is a shop that makes ćevapi, and in Sarajevo's old bazaar they do little else. This plain room on 34th Avenue keeps to that idea. Ten small grilled sausages of minced beef arrive tucked into a soft, griddled somun bread, with a heap of raw onion and a spoon of kajmak, the clotted, faintly sour cream that makes the whole thing make sense.

Beyond the grill there are pljeskavica patties, burek from the oven, stuffed peppers, sarma and a bowl of pasulj beans for a cold day. The decor is an afterthought and the prices are kind. Come hungry, sit near the window, and eat the way the regulars do — with your hands, and without looking at the clock.