Cosme

Enrique Olvera, the chef behind Pujol in Mexico City, opened Cosme in 2015 as his first upscale restaurant in Manhattan, with the aim of broadening what New Yorkers think Mexican food can be. The dining room is big and dark, with a dim spotlight over each table; the crowd is birthdays and business dinners, and people dress up.

The duck carnitas is the dish: half a roasted duck brought in a cast-iron pan with warm tortillas for building your own tacos, meant for sharing. Around it, the menu changes with the seasons — scallops al pastor, a tlayuda to share, a house mole — and the corn husk meringue has been the dessert since the early days. A mezcal margarita to start.