Danubius

New York has very few Romanian dining rooms left, and this small, warm one in Sunnyside is the one to know. It is named for the river that ends at Romania's Black Sea coast, and run with a host's attention — Romanian music in the background, and the owner checking that you have eaten enough.

Order mititei, the skinless garlicky grilled sausages of minced beef and pork, eaten with mustard; sarmale, cabbage rolls with mămăligă (polenta), sour cream and a sliver of smoked pork; and ciorbă, the soured soup Romanians start a meal with. Finish with papanași, a fried cheese doughnut under sour cream and jam, which is reason enough to make the trip.