Devoción

Devoción roasts Colombian coffee flown in green within days of harvest — a farm-to-roaster pipeline the company built itself — and its Grand Street flagship is one of the most beautiful rooms in Brooklyn coffee: a huge skylight, a living wall of greenery, leather sofas, and the roaster working in view behind glass.

The freshness claim is not marketing garnish; the coffee tastes noticeably brighter and sweeter than most of what the city pours. It is a place to actually sit — the light under the skylight on a clear afternoon is reason enough — though the sofas are contested territory on weekends.