Dokodemo

A few steps down from East 4th Street, Dokodemo is a small basement counter run by restaurateurs with a long record in Japan, who opened it in 2017 to cook Japanese street-stall griddle food. You order at the counter and watch it happen on a wide flat-top.

The okonomiyaki — a cabbage pancake under sauce, mayonnaise and bonito flakes that shiver in the heat — is the dish that made its name, and the Hiroshima-style version layers noodles into it. Takoyaki come out hot and soft in the middle; yakisoba and Hakata-style yaki udon round things out. It is cheap, quick and a very good late-afternoon snack.