Eim Khao Mun Kai

A one-dish restaurant, inspired by the street carts of Thailand that sell nothing else. Khao man gai is Thailand's take on Hainanese chicken rice: poached chicken chopped to order and laid over rice that has been cooked with garlic, ginger and chicken fat, with a cup of broth on the side. Here it comes with the gizzard and liver too, the way it does at home.

Garlic, chilies and the house sauces sit ready so you can season it to taste. The room is small, with a few big round tables, and most people are in and out in twenty minutes. Opinionated About Dining has kept it on its North American cheap-eats list, and it is one of the Broadway kitchens that turns out for Elmhurst's neighborhood food days.