Francie

A glamorous brasserie in a converted limestone bank on Broadway, a short walk from Peter Luger, where waiters in white blazers carry platters of dry-aged duck on beds of flowers past big booths and an open kitchen. It is a restaurant for an occasion, though a weeknight martini and snacks at the bar works too.

The whole roasted dry-aged duck, for three or four, is the reason to book: crackling skin, mashed parsnips, soppressata jam and Swiss chard with pine nuts. Before it, a small sourdough loaf with whipped lardo, tiny soufflé cakes with caviar and seaweed butter, and savory squash bomboloni under crisp pancetta.