Gee's Caribbean Restaurant

A small Trinidadian kitchen a few doors up Nostrand Avenue, with a couple of tables, a television on the wall and a steam-table counter that does most of the business. The staff here are unusually generous with tastes: point at a pan and you will likely be handed a spoonful before you decide.

Use that to choose between the goat curry and the oxtail — the goat tends to win — and build a dinner combo around it, with rice and two sides. Callaloo and mashed pumpkin are the sides to pick, or the creamy potato salad if you want something cool next to the curry. Doubles with tamarind sauce are worth adding at the counter. Most people take it home.