Geo Si Gi

Gamjatang is a soup for at least two people and a long evening. At Geo Si Gi, on Northern Boulevard, it arrives in a wide pot over a portable burner and keeps simmering on the table: pork neck bones heavy with meat, potatoes, rice cakes, kimchi and a red, porky broth that a server keeps topping up as it reduces.

That is the order, and it is the reason to come. If you want more, the combinations add bulgogi, LA galbi or pig's trotter; Yelp regulars single out the spicy jokbal, which is a fine reason to bring a third person. Bring a friend, and bring some cash to tip — the advice from the regulars is consistent on both.