Golden Lake Pavilion

The old-school dim sum palace, in a building that used to be a diner: one enormous room of chandeliers, Greek columns and painted partitions, with carts weaving between big round tables. It sits well south of the Flushing crowds, and that is part of its charm.

The dish to find is the rice roll wrapped around fried shrimp, soft outside and shattering within. Pineapple roast pork buns and steamed pork ribs are the other regular orders. On quieter weekdays you may order from a checklist instead of the carts.