Heidelberg Restaurant

Yorkville was New York's Germantown, and Heidelberg, on Second Avenue since 1939, is the last full-dress survivor of it: carved wood, half-timbered façade, beer steins, servers in dirndls and lederhosen. It is unapologetically old-fashioned, which is precisely why it's worth a visit.

Order the sausage platter — bratwurst, knockwurst, weisswurst with sauerkraut and sharp mustard — or the roast pork shank with its crackling skin, schnitzel with spätzle, and potato pancakes with applesauce. German beer comes by the stein. In autumn the room turns into a small, cheerful Oktoberfest.