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CARROLL GARDENS, BROOKLYN

Hungry Thirsty

Fiery regional Thai in Ugly Baby's old Smith Street room — salted-egg squid and a blazing yellow curry.

This Smith Street storefront was where Ugly Baby built its reputation for fearless Thai cooking, and when that restaurant left for Williamsburg, Hungry Thirsty moved in and kept the heat on. Unlike its walk-in-only predecessor, it takes reservations — a small mercy on a busy street.

The star is khoong muk kai kem, squid and shrimp stir-fried with salted duck egg yolk. Kang khoong, a yellow shrimp curry, is genuinely fiery; panang with braised beef shanks and red curry with mushrooms are gentler. Leng zabb, a sour pork-bone soup, and whole fried branzino with nam pla round out a table. There's a Thai iced tea slushy served in a Care Bear mug, if you need one.

Editor’s tip

Order the salted-egg squid and one curry, and be honest with yourself about spice.

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Editorial draft — core details last reviewed October 13, 2026. Confirm practical details with the official site before you go.