JeunJu

Jeonju, in Korea's southwest, is the country's byword for good home cooking, and this small restaurant on 150th Street borrows its name and its manner. The menu reads like a family table: soups and stews, grilled fish, plates meant to be shared, and banchan that arrive without ceremony.

The dish people come back for is sujebi, hand-torn dough in a hot, savory broth — Gothamist singled out a perilla-seed version — and the steamed dumplings are made in-house. Reviewers also rave about the bossam, and the grilled hairtail with doenjang soup and the haejangguk, the hangover soup, make a fine case for coming early in the day.