Joenise Restaurant

Things move at an easy pace at Joenise, a Haitian restaurant on a quiet stretch of Rogers Avenue at the southern edge of Crown Heights. People drift in, order at the counter, pick up a housemade juice, and either settle at a table or carry a tub of soup home. The menu changes with the day, so the board matters more than any printed list.

The plate most people come for is fried turkey with black rice — diri djon djon, the rice Haitian kitchens cook dark and earthy with black mushrooms. Add lalo, the stewed jute leaves that the Infatuation likened to creamed spinach, and if it is on, a takeout tub of cow foot soup with shredded beef and dumplings. A fresh juice alongside is the right call.