Joe's Pizza (Carmine Street)

Joe Pozzuoli came to New York from Naples and opened his slice shop at the corner of Bleecker and Carmine in 1975; it later moved a few doors down to 7 Carmine Street, and that narrow counter is still the one people mean. There is nowhere much to sit. A slice lands on a paper plate within seconds, and you eat it on the sidewalk with the Village going past.

Order a plain slice — thin, foldable, a light orange sheen of oil on top — and a fresh mozzarella slice beside it. The name now hangs over shops in several boroughs and a few other states, but the Carmine Street original is the version worth the line, and the line moves.