KRU

Kru is Thai for guru, and the husband-and-wife team behind it — chef Ohm Suansilphong and Kiki Supap, who comes from a family of Thai dessert makers — cook from old sources: recipes drawn from the memorial books that well-off Thai families once published, dishes rarely seen outside Thailand. The room on North 14th Street is bright and airy, all exposed brick and cement tile.

The menu moves the way a Thai meal does. Small bites first, like ma hor, a sweet-and-spicy fruit bite; then relishes — nam prik and lon — that stay on the table; then curries and larger plates, such as a beef tongue massaman, braised beef shank and tripe in a sour, spicy broth, or a red-curry-rubbed branzino served on banana leaf. Time Out named it the city's best Thai restaurant for 2025.