La Roja de Todos

New York has very few Chilean restaurants, and this is where the community gathers. Pablo Colque, from Valparaíso, ran it for years in Corona before moving in 2024 to a small shopping center on 14th Avenue near the Whitestone Bridge, for more room and somewhere to park. Inside, oil paintings of Valparaíso and straw hats line the walls, and the bakery case is full of alfajores.

Order the way a Chilean family would: empanadas de pino, baked and filled with beef, onion, olive and egg; pastel de choclo, the corn-topped casserole; and a completo, the Chilean hot dog buried under tomato, smashed avocado and mayonnaise. Larger groups go for chorrillana, a platter of fries under steak, onions and eggs. On match days for La Roja, the national team, the room of about ninety seats fills with red jerseys, and reservations are required.