Lechonera La Piraña

On weekends only, a trailer at the corner of East 152nd Street and Wales Avenue turns into a Puerto Rican roadside stand worthy of the pork highway in Guavate. Angel Jimenez — Chapi Chulo to his customers — works the counter with a machete, carving lechón to order and showering the pork, crackling and all, onto paper plates. The family business goes back more than three decades; the New York Times reviewed it in 2022.

Get the lechón with arroz con gandules and let him add the mojito, the garlicky sauce. Regulars also order the octopus salad, mofongo, alcapurrias, bacalaítos and pastelillos while they last. There is nowhere to sit to speak of, so eat on the sidewalk or carry it home, and come early — when the pig is gone, the day is over.