Lisbonata

What began as a farmers-market pop-up, born of the owner's craving for the pastéis de nata of Lisbon, now has a permanent home on St. Johns Place. It does one thing: custard tarts, baked in a big kitchen with large windows beside the takeout counter.

The original is best, with singed patches on top, a crackly buttery shell and a smooth custard. There are flavored versions too — yuzu, Belgian chocolate, salted caramel, raspberry and a pistachio cream that tastes faintly of baklava. A box of four makes you the most popular person at a Prospect Park picnic.