Mama's Too

A tiny Broadway counter with a glass case of squares and triangles, and very little room to stand in front of it. The squares are the reason to come: a crunchy bottom, crisp edges, a sweet and garlicky sauce, and plenty of melted mozzarella.

Order the pepperoni square and the cacio e pepe — rich, salty, more cheese than seems wise, and available as a square or a triangle. The Angry Nonna, with hot soppressata, Calabrian chili oil and hot honey, is the third slice in the box. Slices sell out; a whole pie is the safe bet. There is a West Village shop too.