Mogmog

Jun Odani spent years supplying Japanese fish to Manhattan sushi bars before he opened this small market in Hunters Point in 2021, and he still brings fish in from Japan by air. Mogmog is a shop first — condiments, sake snacks, seasonal fruit, and a claim to be the first market in America to sell Yubari king melons — with a kitchen in the back.

That kitchen is the reason to come. Sushi and maki come out through the day, along with rainbow chirashi and kaisen don, rice bowls heaped with raw fish, plus hot specials like tonjiru and an unagi bento. When it's on, there is kakigori, a towering shaved ice. Eat at the outdoor tables or carry it to Gantry Plaza State Park, a few blocks west.