Old Captain's Dumpling

Shandong is a coastal province, and its dumplings taste of it. At this counter around the corner from White Bear, cooks fold mackerel and chives into fish dumplings while you watch — light, briny and nothing like the pork dumplings most New Yorkers know.

Order the fish dumplings steamed first, so you taste the filling clearly, then pan-fried pork and shrimp dumplings with crisp, lacy edges. The shop began as a stall in the New World Mall before moving here, and it still sells bags of frozen dumplings to take home.