Ops

A small room on a quiet residential stretch of Himrod Street that calls itself a pizza-and-wine bar, and means both halves. Ops makes its pizza from a sourdough base and pulls its own mozzarella almost every day, and you can taste the care in both.

Order the Cicero, buried under onions, and the thick square pie, which regulars will tell you is the best thing here. The calzone rotates and comes with tomato sauce for dunking; the antipasti and a seasonal salad change daily. It has a sibling in the East Village now, but the Bushwick original is still the one with the neighborhood around it.