Phê

The bread is the point. Next door to Mắm, its parent restaurant, Phê bakes its baguettes in the basement and carries them upstairs in woven baskets, then toasts them in small batches before they are split and filled. The crust shatters; the crumb is light enough to disappear. Seating is a few low stools, and most of the room is a line.

Order the bánh mì heo quay, roast pork belly with crackling skin and chili sauce, or the bánh mì chả lụa with two cold cuts and house-made pâté. The vegetarian version uses fried tofu made at Mắm. The coffee counter runs its own queue — a plain black phin, or the coconut and fish-sauce caramel coffees — and you can skip the sandwich line entirely if that is all you came for.