Prosciutto

Eight tables and a few counter seats on East 9th Street, run by a small team who all come from Pistoia, in Tuscany. It is walk-in only, which keeps it a neighborhood room even as word gets out.

Start with the coccoli — fried dough puffs — with prosciutto and stracchino, then a pasta: the tonnarelli alla gricia, or gnocchi in a prosciutto ragù. The dish to come for is the cotoletta alla bolognese, a breaded veal chop. Share the grilled spring onions with pork belly if there are more of you.