Qanoon

A cozy townhouse restaurant on Ninth Avenue where the owner cooks the Palestinian food of a hometown and a family farm, inspired by a mother named Rasmyee. A playlist of Middle Eastern artists fills the room, and it feels like being fed in someone's home.

Order the makloubeh, flipped out of its pot in a dome of rice, vegetables and meat; mahshi; and the musakhan, sumac chicken laid over bread that soaks up every drop. Weekend brunch is served too, and a small pantry sells provisions to take home.