Roscioli

The New York outpost of a Rome favorite, on the corner of MacDougal and King. Upstairs works like an alimentari, a deli counter of cured meats and cheese; downstairs is a low, candlelit, cave-like dining room that suits a long meal with a bottle of wine.

Come for the classic Roman pastas, and above all the carbonara, which holds up to the original. Follow it with the amatriciana for a tomato-sharp contrast, start with one supplì per person and a burrata, add a plate of sott'oli, and finish with tiramisu. The cacio e pepe is good; it is not the reason to come.