Sunday in Brooklyn

Sunday in Brooklyn opened in 2016 in a three-story building near the Williamsburg waterfront and quickly became the borough's definitive brunch — largely on the strength of one dish, the malted pancakes with hazelnut maple praline, which have been photographed roughly as often as the bridge down the street. The rest of the menu is better than it needs to be given that anchor.

The building helps: a plant-hung ground floor, an upstairs bar, and a rooftop in season. Weekend waits are real and the name is the warning — go on an actual weekday, when the pancakes are identical and the room belongs to the neighborhood again.