Tang

Tang means soup, and the soup here is seolleongtang — ox bone simmered until the broth turns milky white. Through the glass at the back you can see the big metal pots doing their work. The room is larger and more modern than most along this stretch of Northern Boulevard, and it gets families at every hour.

Seolleongtang is traditionally seasoned at the table, to taste, with salt and scallion; add the noodles and rice as you go. Galbitang, the short-rib soup, is the richer alternative. In summer, the mul naengmyeon is popular, and the long menu also covers jokbal naengchae, spicy soft tofu and dishes from Chinese and Japanese kitchens for anyone at the table who wants them.