Taqueria Ramirez

A small counter on Franklin Street, with its door around the corner on Oak Street, built in the image of the taquerias of Mexico City — colorful plastic plates, a choricera and a comal made in CDMX, and a short menu that it does almost nothing to expand. People eat leaning on a rail along the sidewalk, and the line is part of the experience.

Order suadero, slow-cooked in fat until it turns velvety, and tripa if you like it crisp; al pastor and orange-stained longaniza round out a second round. It's dine-in only, which keeps the pace brisk and the tacos hot.