Theodora

Chef Tomer Blechman, of Miss Ada up the hill, built Theodora around fish and fire: seasonal produce and dry-aged fish cooked in an open kitchen, a natural wine list, and a room with the warm, low look of a mid-century cave. Fish drawings on the menu, fish matchboxes by the door, a long hiramasa hanging in the dry-ager.

Everyone starts with the za'atar kubaneh, a savory pull-apart bread with schug, tomato aioli and harissa, and the striped bass ceviche with charred pineapple. Then grilled branzino or crisp-skinned trout. The cocktails are worth a visit on their own — the Aristaeus mixes tequila, honey and feta.