Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi

Across from the Broadway LIRR station, in a small room with no decor to speak of, the grills are loaded with thick cuts of pork belly — the name means, more or less, grilled whole pork belly. The Michelin Guide lists it, and it is usually packed.

Order the pork belly, marinated for days in the house sauce or plain, and let it crisp. Wrap it in lettuce with the house kimchi and pickled radish, and order cold noodles to cut the richness; at the end, fried rice is sizzled right on the grill. The soy-marinated beef short rib is the other cut to know.