Warique

A calm, airy room on 37th Avenue with a handful of tables for two, a small bar, framed art and a shelf of plants — a quiet setting for food that is anything but. A cup of salted maíz chulpe arrives while you read the menu, and cans of Inca Kola sit on most tables.

Bring at least one other person and eat the Peruvian classics in feast form. Start with anticuchos, the grilled skewers, and a leche de tigre ceviche served in a cocktail glass, then move to lomo saltado, the soy-and-tomato beef stir-fry with fries, and a tamal criollo. Two dishes between two people is enough to get the idea; four is better.