ELMHURST, QUEENS
Warung Selasa at Indo Java
A one-table Tuesday lunch at the back of an Indonesian grocery — and a 2026 NYT top-25 pick.
Indo Java is a two-aisle Indonesian grocery on Queens Boulevard — kecap manis, bumbu pastes, blocks of tempeh — and once a week its back corner becomes one of the smallest restaurants in New York. Selasa means Tuesday. Dewi, who opened the shop in 2008, began cooking a weekly lunch in 2016, for whoever fit at a single folding table.
The menu changes every week with the market and the cook's mood: nasi campur, a plate of rice crowded with small dishes; nasi gudeg, the jackfruit stew of Yogyakarta; soto ayam, the turmeric chicken soup. When it's gone, it's gone. In 2026 the New York Times ranked this one-table pop-up twenty-second among the city's best restaurants, ahead of rooms that seat a hundred.
Editor’s tip
Preorder if you can, then browse the grocery's shelves of sambal, bumbu and kecap manis while you wait.
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Editorial draft — core details last reviewed October 13, 2026. Confirm practical details with the official site before you go.