White Bear

White Bear is a closet of a shop off Prince Street with a handful of stools, a steamer going all day, and one dish that made it famous: the #6 — a dozen delicate pork-and-vegetable wontons slicked with chili oil, scattered with pickled vegetable. People have been crossing boroughs for that plate for the better part of two decades, and the operation has barely acknowledged the attention.

It is cash only, mostly takeout, and the menu board holds far fewer secrets than the freezer case of wontons regulars carry home by the bag. Order the #6, perch where you can, and be done in fifteen perfect minutes.