Ba Xuyên

Eighth Avenue in Sunset Park is Brooklyn's Chinatown, and for many New Yorkers this small shop near 42nd Street is the reason to know it. There are a few tables in a café-like room, a wall of numbered pictures behind the counter, and a steady takeout trade.

The #1 is the classic: pâté, ham, head cheese, pork roll and teriyaki pork under a generous swipe of mayo, with pickled carrot, cucumber and cilantro on a crisp baguette. The #7, with sardines, is the second order. Add shrimp-and-pork spring rolls, then carry everything up to Sunset Park, where the benches look across the harbor at Manhattan.