Cheeni

In Bengali, "cheeni" can mean sugar or "I know of," and this Tompkins Avenue all-day café shifts with context the same way: chai and laptops in the morning, a bottle of wine with friends by evening. The room is bright and spacious, with textile swatches framed on the walls and a narrow side patio.

Mornings bring Indian-inspired pastries — a samosa croissant, rose-pistachio cake — and breakfast parathas. After five, order the vada pav, a crisp, gooey potato fritter on a griddled roll with green and dry garlic chutneys, with house masala chai, a Kingfisher or a glass of orange wine. Finish with the tea-ramisu.