Una Pizza Napoletana

Anthony Mangieri has spent his career on one thing: naturally leavened Neapolitan pizza. He still kneads and shapes every ball of dough himself, and the restaurant does not open unless he is there. The room on Orchard Street is small and candlelit, the menu short, and each person gets a whole pie.

Order the margherita first, with buffalo mozzarella and San Marzano tomatoes on a soft, blistered crust, then a bianca — and if you like anchovies, the version with them. It keeps limited nights; reservations go fast, so check the official site before you plan around it.