Bar Goto

Kenta Goto made his name behind the bar at Pegu Club, and his own place on Eldridge Street is a small, low-lit room with a Japanese sense of order: clean lines, exact pours, cocktails built on sake, shochu and Japanese whisky. It is a bar first — and the one in Manhattan where okonomiyaki is the thing everyone orders with their drinks.

The savory cabbage pancake, griddled and painted with sauce and mayonnaise, comes in several versions and is the reason to arrive hungry. Add the spicy miso chicken wings or the beef-and-potato croquettes, then a yuzu highball or one of Goto's stirred drinks. Walk-in only, and small, so go early.