Bamonte's

Bamonte's opened in 1900 on Withers Street, when this corner of Williamsburg was solidly Italian, and it has never moved. Pasquale Bamonte came from Salerno; his grandson Anthony took over in the late 1960s and still runs it with his daughters. Past the front bar, which pours strong martinis, is a big dining room with chandeliers, high ceilings and heavy red curtains, waiters in tuxedos, and phone booths installed more than half a century ago as the house business lines. The Sopranos filmed here more than once.

The pork chop parmigiana is the order, and the kitchen portions it to the size of your party. Add clams casino under bacon and baked clams, the chunky, onion-sweet penne alla vodka and a cold antipasto, and expect the room around you to be full of birthdays and big family tables. Book ahead — tables go fast on weekends — and if someone in your group is driving, the restaurant has its own parking lot.