Ghoroa Sweets and Restaurant

Steps from the Church Avenue station, at the center of Kensington's Little Bangladesh, Ghoroa is a counter-service room where neighbors linger over chai at a handful of tables. Bangladeshi cooking is the food of rivers and rice — mustard oil, fresh green chilies, fish curries, and festive rice dishes — and the one to come for is beef teheri.

Teheri is made with kalijira, a tiny, fragrant short-grain rice, cooked with beef until it turns nutty and rich. Order it with a side of chicken roast and a pile of fresh green chilies, then browse the steam-table curries of goat, tilapia and salmon, and the sweets case on the way out. Mornings bring roti with curried potatoes.