Jinmen Shaokao

Mr. Su grilled skewers in Tianjin for more than a decade before he brought the habit to the Bowery. His cart sits across from the Confucius statue, and by evening the charcoal smoke and cumin drift halfway down the block. It is the kind of street food that makes a Chinatown walk turn into dinner.

Order a mix of chuar — lamb first, then beef, chicken and squid — and, if he has it, a whole grilled squid off the teppanyaki plate. Everything is cooked to order over charcoal and dusted with chili and cumin. Stand at the corner and eat them straight off the stick.