Rico Pollo

Myrtle Avenue is not where most people go looking for Dominican food, which is part of the pleasure here. Walk in and the steam trays are right by the door — pollo guisado, yuca, maduros, rice and beans — and behind them a slab of chicharrón so thick and well crackled you can hear it being cut from across the room.

Point and build a plate: chicharrón, the crisp-edged pernil, rotisserie chicken, or mofongo with pernil if you want something heavier. Eat in the back dining room or take it to go. A full meal comes in well under what you'd spend in most of Ridgewood, and the counter staff will steer you right if you ask what came out of the oven last.